Alta Via 1 GPX: Ultralight Wild Camping Trip - 6 Days
- Jack Paton
- Feb 22
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 13
Rain, Refugios, and One Very Unwell Friend: Our Alta Via 1 Adventure
We did the Alta Via 1 in 6 days at the end of July 2025.
It’s one of those hikes that looks aggressively beautiful in photos. Turquoise lakes, dramatic rock towers, perfect ridgelines. All true. The scenery is outrageous.
But let’s be real. It can also be wet for most of a week.
Here’s how ours went.
Getting There: Venice, Gas Canisters & Italian Buses
We flew into Venice, which means one thing: no gas on the plane. So, our first stop was Decathlon to buy fuel. Seriously, do that. Don’t try to be clever.
There’s an Aldi nearby, so obviously we did a chaotic food shop. Tuna in olive oil (elite calorie-to-weight ratio), instant mash, couscous, mugshot pastas — the usual ultralight-but-not-miserable lineup.
We killed time in what claimed to be an Irish pub (it was not remotely Irish). That’s where it became clear Sean wasn’t feeling great. Not dramatic, just… off.
The bus north was classic Italy. We nearly missed it because we had no idea which stop it left from. Thought we had to change buses halfway up. We didn’t. Same bus. Just late.
Eventually, we rolled up to Lago di Braies, the official start of the Alta Via 1.
It’s stunning. Unreal turquoise water. Big hotel on the lake. We had a sit down, used proper toilets, then wandered round the lake to camp.
Night 1 – 22 July 2025
46.689794, 12.079749
Loads of people were camping near the trailhead, so it felt semi-normal.
Important lesson: Don't bring couscous in a thin sandwich bag. It'll get holes in it. Mugshot pasta, however, is elite. Just add boiling water. No scrubbing your pot.
Day 1 – Rifugio Biella & High Spirits
First proper climb, first proper hut: Rifugio Biella.
We were buzzing. First mountain beers for me and Paul. Sean? Coca-Cola. This became his strategy for the entire hike.
“Just need sugar.”
There was WiFi at the hut, which feels wrong at that altitude.
The weather was decent. Everyone was in good spirits.
Rifugio Pederü & The First Proper Storm
Next big stop: Rifugio Pederü.
Big, busy, very civilised. Lots of Italians hiking up for lunch. Dogs everywhere. We ate well. Stayed too long. Then the weather flipped. Thunder. Lightning. Heavy rain. I was in full bright blue Frogg Toggs and looked ridiculous. Sean was already moving slower than us and falling further behind.
From this point on, the weather became inconsistent. You’d get an hour of sunshine, then straight back into cloud and rain.
Night 2 – 23 July 2025
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Quiet spot, decent pitch, still optimistic about the forecast.
Lagazuoi: Rocks, Fog & Caves
The terrain around Lagazuoi is rocky and side-slanted. Your ankles work overtime. It’s beautiful, but it’s not a cruise.
We climbed up to Forcella Lagazuoi and explored the WWI tunnels. Very cool. Very low ceilings. Everyone smacked their head at least once.
You can safely leave your pack outside. Just remember which entrance you used.
We grabbed food at the hut, then took the cable car down soaked.
Small but important tip: the shop at Lagazuoi is not a proper resupply. It’s snacks. Fine for morale. Not for meals.
Night 3 – 24 July 2025
46.50049, 12.09522
Weather: WET - Good camp spot next to a small hut, joined by some Czechs.
Rain, Instant Mash & Feeding the Troops
By now, Sean was properly unwell. Every time we stopped, he’d fold his arms on a table and just put his head down. In photos, he looks unconscious.
We got caught in multiple downpours. I had to dig a small channel around my tent one night to redirect water.
At camp, Paul and Sean realised the “resupply” they’d hoped for wasn’t happening. So they ate my instant mash.
Instant mash + tuna + olive oil sachets = elite.
Day 3: Pala Favera: Fire & Dry Socks
We reached Rifugio Pala Favera in heavy rain.
Inside was a massive fire. Staff were constantly feeding it. Everyone had their gear laid out drying. It smelled horrific (wet socks everywhere), but it was glorious.
We charged everything. Got properly warm. Massive morale boost.
Night 4 – 25 July 2025
46.39970, 12.06172
Gorgeous evening.
Lago Coldai: Finally, Proper Beauty
We pushed on to Lago Coldai, near Rifugio Coldai.
The weather finally behaved.
We camped right by the lake, and it was easily one of the best spots of the trip.
Clearer skies. Unreal reflections. Me and Paul were slightly too drunk for the altitude. Sean was still on Coca-Cola.
Night 5 – 26 July 2025
46.30795, 12.091669
Nice weather, lumpy camp.
By now it was day five. Paul and I agreed this was one of our favourite hikes. Sean was still ill, coughing, and occasionally being sick on climbs, but he never once said he wanted to quit.
Respect.
We camped just below the summit of a random hill.
Night 6 – 27 July 2025
46.25964, 12.17592
Heavy rain overnight. Paul had to wring water out of his down quilt in the morning.
No pics, that's how grim it was.
Final Descent & Bus Logistics
Last day is mostly downhill. Rocky in places but quick.
The final hut displays bus times. Check them.
We made the bus. The driver refused to take a €20 note because he had “no change,” even though we didn’t want change. Eventually, another hiker broke it for us.
Then it was down to Belluno, trains back toward Venice, and a long overdue shower.
GPX/Map File Download
Download our .GPX route of the trip. Wild camping is not technically legal and not endorsed by us.
LEAVE.NO.TRACE.
Final Thoughts on the Alta Via 1
It is properly beautiful.
But:
The weather can turn fast.
Don’t rely on tiny hut shops for full resupplies.
Bring solid, simple food.
Wild camp discreetly: pitch late, leave early, respect the place.
Keep morale high when someone’s struggling.
Six days. A lot of rain. A lot of beer. One committed Coca-Cola strategy.
Would do it again. Maybe with slightly less water falling from the sky.
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